Use of at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea in a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic composition containing at least one plant extract from a plant belonging to a genus selected from the group consisting of Lannea, Odina, and mixtures thereof, for application onto a human substrate selected from the group consisting of skin, mucous membranes and epithelial appendages.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates generally to the field of cosmetics andpharmacology and more particularly to the use of at least one extract ofa plant belonging to the genus Lannea, preferably Lannea coromandelicaor Lannea grandis, in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparations.

Lannea coromandelica (Houtt.) Merr. is a tree originating from theAnacardiaceae family which is encountered mainly in India and in variousAsiatic countries.

In the books of traditional Indian medicine, it is sometimes confusedwith Lannea grandis because, in many works, both have the same synonymOdina woodier roxb.

The bark is traditionally used in particular in the treatment of cuts,other wounds, bruises (sprains and strains) and diarrhoea, aqueousextracts of the bark also being used as an abortive.

The leaves like the bark are also used as curatives, particularly in thetreatment of inflammation, arthritis, bruises and, generally, physicalpain.

It is known that an ethanol extract of Lannea coromandelica leaves has aprotective effect on the membrane of the red blood cells againsthypotonic stress which has been taken as an indication ofanti-inflammatory activity (cf. Gandhidasan R. et al., Fitoterapia,62/1, 81-83, 1991).

In addition, an ethanol-containing extract of the bark, afterintraperitoneal administration, has been shown to have quiteconsiderable anti-inflammatory activity in doses dependent upon theparticular type of inflammation, this extract having no pain-killing(analgesic) or antipyretic activity (cf. Singh S. and Singh G. B.,Phytotherapy Research, 8/5, 311-313,1994).

By contrast, the inventors have found that, besides the therapeuticproperties mentioned above, extracts obtained from various parts of theplant also have significant biological properties so that they may bedirectly used in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions or forthe preparation thereof.

The effects and properties demonstrated so unexpectedly and surprisinglyconsist in antiradical-like, cytophotoprotective, tyrosinase- andmelanogenesis (depigmenting)-inhibiting and antiprotease (antielastase,anticollagenase) effects.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was inparticular to use at least one extract of a plant belonging to thebotanical genus Lannea, preferably Lannea coromandelica or Lanneagrandis (synonym Odina woodier), as an active principle for thepreparation of a cosmetic product for external use for the skin, themucous membranes and/or the epithelial appendage (superficial bodygrowth), the extract or extract mixture in question being usable on itsown or together with at least one other active principle.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a line graph comparing the tyrosinase inhibition of thepresent invention versus that of a control group.

FIG. 2 is a bar graph comparing the effects of protein and melanininhibition of composition in accordance with the present invention, atvarying active levels, versus that of a control group.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

By virtue of their many effects described hereinafter, these extractsmay advantageously be used on their own or together with other activeingredients in products which are intended to counteract ageing of theskin, cutaneous hyperpigmentation, pigment spots, loss of cutaneouselasticity, wrinkles, irritation and inflammation (treatment ofsensitive skin types), environmental pollution and/or harm caused by thesun.

After picking and drying, the relevant parts of the plant are subjectedto an extraction process for which the solvent used is advantageouslyselected from the group consisting of water, alcohols, ketones, esters,chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of at least two of theabove-mentioned solvents miscible with one another.

Alternatively, the extracts according to the present invention may alsobe obtained by the extraction with supercritical CO₂ alone or with aco-solvent or by a solvent extraction process based on microwaveradiation.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the plant extract mayalso consist of one or more isolated purified fraction(s), particularlyby chromatography starting from a crude extract.

Various examples of procedures preferably followed for the preparationof extracts from the plants mentioned above are described in thefollowing in order to illustrate the invention without limiting it inany way.

The parts of the plants used in the description of the examples arementioned purely by way of example, the extracts according to theinvention being obtainable from all accessible parts of the plants, i.e.the roots, bark (from the roots, stalks and the trunk), the leaves andthe leaved stalks, the seeds, fruit and blossoms, but preferably fromthe bark of the trunk and/or the leaves.

EXAMPLE 1

Bark of the Lannea coromandelica strain is coarse-crushed and thenfine-crushed in a blade crusher.

3 Liters of distilled water are poured into a stirrer-equipped reactorand the following steps are then successively carried out:

introduce 300 g coarse-ground bark into the reactor,

extract by boiling for 1 hour with stirring,

allow to cool to room temperature,

separate insoluble material by centrifuging or filtering,

filter the liquid extract to a porosity of ca. 0.45 μm,

collect the filtrate and remove water by spraying (atomizing).

The extract obtained based on the extracted dry matter comprises 14% inrelation to the coarse-ground bark.

EXAMPLE 2

3 Liters of 80% methyl alcohol are poured into a stirrer-equippedreactor and the following steps are then successively carried out:

introduce 300 g dried coarse-ground Lannea coromandelica leaves into thereactor,

extract by heating (under reflux) for 1 hour with stirring,

allow to cool to room temperature,

filter and rinse the residue with 300 ml 80% methanol,

mix the filtrates and then clarify them by filtering to a porosity ofca. 0.45 μm,

evaporate the methanol phase in vacuo,

if necessary, remove water from the aqueous solution formed by any ofthe usual methods familiar to the expert in this field.

The extract obtained based on the extracted dry matter comprises 10.3%in relation to the coarse-ground leaves.

EXAMPLE 3

3 Liters of absolute ethanol are poured into a stirrer-equipped reactorand the following steps are then successively carried out:

introduce 300 g coarse-ground roots of the bark of the Lanneacoromandelica strain into the reactor,

extract by heating (under reflux) for 1 hour with stirring,

allow to cool to room temperature,

filter and rinse the residue with 300 ml ethanol at 96°,

mix the filtrates and filter to a porosity of ca. 0.45 μm,

evaporate the ethanol phase in vacuo at 40° C.,

remove traces of the sol vent by drying the extracts in a ventilateddrying oven at 40-50° C.

The extract obtained comprises 16.1% in relation to the coarse-groundbark.

The following Table is a list—intended for information—of all the Lanneacoromandelica extracts which the inventors obtained by steps similar tothose described above.

Extracted part of the plant Extract type Yield in % Bark of the trunk,sample A Aqueous extract 13.9 80% Methanol extract 18.7 Ethanol extract16.1 Bark of the trunk, sample B Aqueous extract 11.9 80% Methanolextract 14.1 Ethanol extract 14.1 Leaves Aqueous extract 10.2 80%Methanol extract 10.3 Ethanol extract 12.1

I) Demonstration of Inhibition of Melanogenesis by Lannea coromandelicaExtracts

a) Principle of the Tests

Melanin, a biological polymer which determines the color of the skin, isproduced in epidermal melanocytes by a specific enzyme, tyrosinase. Thisenzyme catalyzes the first two stages in the synthesis of melanin, i.e.the conversion of the tyrosine into DOPA (dihydroxy phenyl alanine) andthen into dopachromium. The dopachromium is then oxidized under theeffect of other enzymes and polymerized into melanin which is passedonto the keratinocytes in the form of small granules, the melanosomes.

In addition, it has been found that ageing under the effect of light cancause the appearance of dark unattractive spots which are produced byhyperactivity of the melanocytes.

The ability of Lannea extracts, particularly Lannea coromandelicaextracts, to reduce the activity of the melanocytes has been evaluatedby a tyrosinase inhibition test in tubo and by a melanogenesisinhibition test in vitro, of which the principles are summarized below:

In Tubo Tyrosinase Inhibition Test

mixing of the L-DOPA with tyrosinase and the Lannea coromandelicaextracts to be tested,

recording of the DO at 475 nm of the dopachromium,

calculation of the kinetics, then the Cl50 (extract concentration whichproduces a 50% inhibition of the enzyme activity).

In vitro Melanogenesis Inhibition Test on B16 Melanocytes

inoculation of the melanocytes into a growth substrate,

incubation for three days at 37° C., CO₂=5%,

introduction of the Lannea coromandelica extracts into a medium whichactivates melanogenesis,

incubation for three days at 37° C., CO₂=5%,

spectrophotometric dosing of the proteins (co-called Bradford method)and the melanin (DO at 475 nm) into the homogenized melanocytes,

calculation of an activity index which corresponds to the ratio (proteinlevel/melanin level) for an optimal dose of extract.

It follows that the higher the index (>1), the greater the ability toinhibit melanogensis.

b) Results

FIG. 1 of the accompanying drawings is characteristic of the resultsobtained (in tubo tyrosinase inhibition test using aqueous extracts ofthe Lannea coromandelica bark). All the results (Cl50 value) are set outin Table 1 below.

TABLE 1 in tubo tyrosinase inhibition by Lannea coromandelica extracts:values = C150 in % by wt./vol. (weight/volume) Extracted parts Trunkbark C150 in % by wt./vol. Sample A Sample B Leaves Aqueous extract0.009% 0.025% 0.093% Methanol extr. 80% 0.009% 0.007% 0.05% Ethanolextract 96° 0.008% 0.007% 0.130% Hydroquinone CI50 = 0.025% by wt./vol.

FIG. 2 of the accompanying drawings (statistical results:average±typical deviation, two tests, repeated three times) ischaracteristic of the results obtained on B16 melanocyte. All theresults obtained by tests similar to those shown in FIG. 2 are set outin Table II.

TABLE II In vitro melanogenesis inhibition on B16 melanocytes by aqueousextracts of the bark of Lannea coromandelica. Values shown: I = activityindex on B16 melanocytes. Tested Trunk bark Extracted parts dose % bywt./vol. Sample A Sample B Aqueous extract 0.016 I = 2.9 I = 2.5Methanol extract 80% 0.032 I = 2 I = 2.5 Ethanol extract 0.016 I = 2.6 I= 2.4 Arbutin I = 3.14 (for the 0.3% dose)

The results of these two test series show that the Lannea coromandelicaextracts according to the invention have considerable melanogenesisinhibition capacities; these capacities are at least partly attributableto inhibition of tyrosinase.

This property enables the extracts to be used in the local treatment ofcutaneous hyperpigmentations such as, for example, age pigment spots.

II) Demonstration of the Anti-free Radical Properties of the Lanneacoromandelica Extracts

Free radicals (RLs) are activated chemical species characterized by thepresence of a free electron which is not bound in pairs. They can beformed from endogenous molecules such as, for example, unsaturatedlipids, certain amino acids or from oxygen during spontaneous enzymaticreactions of the general metabolism or which were induced duringinflammation. Certain stress factors such as, for example, UV rays orenvironmental pollution also promote their formation and any excess offree radicals causes damage to all constituents of living tissue(lipids, proteins, sugars, ADN, etc.). This toxicity of free radicals isgreatly potentialized by the presence of oxygen and explains the ageingof the living organisms or even serious pathologies, such as skincancer.

The anti-free radical properties of Lannea coromandelica extracts areevaluated by in tubo chemical and biochemical tests which relate both tothe original radical-like forms and to the reactive oxygen-inducedforms. These tests are carried out on synthetic substrates and also on anatural substrate, collagen, the dermal glycoprotein which is highlysensitive to the activity of the reactive forms of oxygen (or FRO).

These tests are completed by a test for human fibroblasts in an in vitroculture which evaluates the cytophotoprotective effects of Lanneacoromandelica extracts on the cells against UV-A.

UV-As are selected as a study model because they penetrate into theinner skin and introduce an oxidizing stress into the skin which isreflected in particular in a lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmicmembrane. The lipoperoxides formed split up into malonaldialdehydeswhich are responsible for the crosslinking of numerous biologicalmolecules, such as proteins for example (enzyme inhibition), and nucleinbases (mutagenesis).

a) DPPH° Test

DPPH (diphenyl picryl hydrazyl) is a stable, free, violet-coloredradical which is modified in its leuco compound by the substances thattrap the free radicals (=scavenger or bait effect).

The result is expressed in leuco compound levels which are formed in thepresence of the active agent (in % in relation to the control with noactive principle).

The results are set out in Table III below.

TABLE III Anti-radical effect of Lannea coromandelica extracts. Anti-DPPH° test: level of leuco compound formed (in % in relation to thecontrol: average of 2 tests). Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanol barkDose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample ASample A Sample A acid Control 0 0 0 0 0.0003% extract 27 34 31 0.001%extract 73 90 86 49 0.01% extract 93 93 93 75 CI50 in % (wt./vol.)0.0007 0.0005 0.0005 0.0013

b) Anti-hydroxyl Radical Test (HO°)

Anti-HO°—Test with Deoxyribose (Fenton Reaction)

These tests evaluate the ability of an active substance to eliminate(“bait”) HO° produced by the Fenton reaction (H₂O₂ in the presence ofiron).

HO° can be exposed by deoxyribose. Deoxyribose is an essential compoundof ADN which is oxidized and then fragmented by HO°. The oxidationproduct of deoxyribose is exposed by condensation with thiobarbituricacid (measurement of optical density at 532 nm). This test is carriedout with and without EDTA in order to determine the ability of theextract to form active complex compounds with iron (“Ferripriveeffect”).

The results are set out in Tables IV.1) and IV.2) below and demonstratethe anti-HO° effect of the Lannea coromandelica extracts. Tests withdeoxyribose (Fenton reaction) (results in percentage inhibition of thehydroxylation rate: average of 2 tests).

IV.1) “Fenton” reaction with EDTA Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanol barkDose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample ASample A Sample A acid Control 0 0 0 0 0.03% extract 0 0 3 0.1% extract29 25 23 45 1% extract 73 CI50 in % (wt./vol.) >0.1 >0.1 >0.1 0.26

IV.2) “Fenton” reaction without EDTA Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanolbark Dose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample ASample A Sample A acid Control 0 0 0 0 0.003% extract 8 37 51 0.01%extract 36 76 75 5 0.03% extract 78 79 77 75 0.1% extract 73 76 78 2 1%extract 56 CI50 in % (wt./vol.) 0.017 0.005 0.003 0.9

c) Biochemical or Enzymatic Tests

*Anti-anion superoxide effect (O_(2.) ⁻)

O_(2.) ⁻ is produced during the oxidizing stress through theintroduction of an enzyme, xanthine oxidase (XOD), which degrades theexcess hypoxanthine (HX) during an interruption in or disruption of theenergy metabolism in living tissue.

O_(2.) ⁻ is toxic, particularly because of its ability to form hydrogenperoxide (H₂O₂)—which in turn forms a source of HO° through the Fentonreaction—either spontaneously or in the presence of Superoxid-Dismutase(SOD).

The biochemical tests are carried out with HX in the presence of XOD andthe O_(2.) ⁻ are exposed by luminol or a mixture of luminol andperoxidase, which exposes O_(2.) ⁻ and H₂O₂, or by a tetrazolium salt(NBT) which forms a red compound evaluated at 540 nm.

The results are set out in Tables V.1), V.2) and V.3) below whichdemonstrate the anti-anion superoxidase effect O_(2.) ⁻ in tubo of theLannea coromandelica extracts.

V.1) Test with luminol: results in percentage inhibition (average of 2tests) Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanol bark Dose in % extract barkextract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acidControl 0 0 0 0 0.0001% extract 36 38 40 5 0.001% extract 90 94 93 920.01% extract 100 100 100 100 CI50 in % (wt./vol.) 0.0003 0.0003 0.00030.0006

V.2) Test with luminol + microperoxidase: results in percentageinhibition (average of 2 tests) Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanol barkDose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample ASample A Sample A acid Control 0 0 0 0 0.001% extract 1 14 2 0 0.01%extract 98 100 99 94 0.03% extract 100 100 100 CI50 in % (wt./vol.)0.0055 0.0048 0.0055 0.0058

V.3) Test with NBT: results in percentage inhibition (average of 2tests) Aqueous 80% Ethanol bark methanol bark Dose in % extract barkextract extract Ascorbic (wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acidControl 0 0 0 0 0.001% extract 9 16 15 0.01% extract 58 64 65 15 0.03%extract 75 82 82 0.1% extract 90 94 91 32 1% extract 65 CI50 in %(wt./vol.) 0.0085 0.0074 0.0073 0.5909 *Anti-singlet oxygen effect ontype I collagen

Collagen is a dermal glycoprotein which is very sensitive to theactivity of the reactive form of oxygen (or FRO). It was shown thatsinglet oxygen (O₂ ¹) produces troublesome crosslinkings among theproteins.

The principle of this test is based on measurement of the viscosity ofan aqueous solution of type I collagen in the presence of aphotochemical O₂ ¹-evolving system.

O₂ ¹, which is produced by riboflavin in the presence of UV-A, causesthe collagen to gel in the presence of glucose which is reflected in anincrease in viscosity. This effect is inhibited by the molecules whichexpose O₂ ¹, such as thiourea or aminoguanidine for example.

Viscosity is evaluated by measurement of the throughflow time throughthe capillary of a “Cannon Fenske” viscosimeter.

The results are set out in Table VI below which emphasizes thephotoprotective effects of the Lannea coromandelica extracts on type Icollagen (results in percentage inhibition).

TABLE VI Aqueous 80% bark Methanol bark Dose in % extract extract(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Aminoguanidine Control 0 0 0 0.005% extract57 0.01% extract 54 70 0.015% extract 75 CI50 in % (wt./vol.) 0.0090.007 0.004

d ) Anti-UVA-cytophotoprotection Test on Human Fibroblasts

This in vitro test evaluates the ability of Lannea coromandelicaextracts according to the invention to afford human fibroblastscytophotoprotection against UV-A.

The UV-As are selected as a study model because they penetrate into theinner skin and introduce an oxidizing stress into the skin which isreflected in particular in a lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmicmembrane. The lipoperoxides formed split up into malonaldialdehydes(MDAS) which are responsible for the crosslinking of numerous biologicalmolecules, such as proteins for example (enzyme inhibition), and nucleinbases (mutagenesis).

Fibroblasts are inoculated into a nutrient medium defined with calffoetus serum. The Lannea coromandelica extract was added 2 to 3 daysafter inoculation. After incubation for 2 to 3 days at 37° C./CO₂=5%,the nutrient medium is replaced by a salt solution and the fibroblastsare exposed to a dose of UV-A (15 J/cm²).

After the exposure, the MDA level in the salt solution floating on thesurface is determined and the protein level in the fibroblasts ismeasured. The MDA level is determined by reaction to thiobarbituric acidwhile the protein levels are determined by the Bradford method.

The results are set out in Tables VII.1 and VII.2 below which enable thecytophotoprotective effect of the Lannea coromandelica extracts on humanfibroblasts to be emphasized through in vitro survival (results in % inrelation to the irradiated control agent MDA) and in relation to thenon-irradiated control agent (proteins): average of 1 or 2 tests carriedout three times).

TABLE VII.1) MDA Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol bark Parameterevaluated extract bark extract extract Vitamin Tested extracts Sample ASample A Sample A E Control without  0  0  0  0 UV-A Control with UV-A100  100  100  100  0.0003% extract 96 74 84 21 0.001% extract 64 56 59 8

TABLE VII.2) Proteins Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol bark Parameterevaluated extract bark extract extract Vitamin Tested extracts Sample ASample A Sample A E Control without 100  100  100  100  UV-A Controlwith UV-A 95 95 95 96 0.0003% extract 100  96 97 97 0.001% extract 93 9398 98

The results of the various tests show that Lannea coromandelica extractsare well capable of eliminating (“baiting”) free radicals, the hydroxylradical and superoxide anions. This anti-free-radical activity isobserved in the photoprotection test on type I collagen and in thecytophotoprotection test on human fibroblasts in in-vitro cultures.

This activity is at least partly attributable to a baiting (orscavenger) effect against free radicals and reactive forms of oxygen(radical hydroxyl, anion superoxide and singlet oxygen) and achelate-binding effect of iron as demonstrated by the anti-HO° activitywhich is greater in the absence of EDTA than in the presence of EDTA.

These various results clearly show that Lannea coromandelica extractsaccording to the invention with their cytophotoprotective activity aresuitable for use in care preparations for the skin or the epithelialappendage (superficial body growth) which are intended to control signsof ageing, environmental stress, inflammation, irritation (treatment ofsensitive skin types).

III. Antiprotease Activity of the Lannea coromandelica Extracts

The proteases secreted by the polymorphonuclear neutrophiles (PNN)during inflammation or by fibroblasts exposed to UV-A radiation producea decay of the proteins which structure the extracellular matrix of theinner skin. Accordingly, the PNNs secrete an elastase (serine protease)which acts on elastin, proteoglycans and collagens while “old” orirradiated fibroblasts secrete metalloproteases with elastase andcollagenase activities.

The two protease types were evaluated by enzymatic in tubo reactions.

a) Antielastase Test

The in tubo tests are carried out with an elastase of the abdominalsalivary gland (serine protease) using two types of substrate: asynthetic color-forming (chromogenic) substrate and a natural substrateconsisting of elastin connected with Congo red.

Incubation lasts 30 minutes at room temperature and coloration ismeasured at 410 nm and 520 nm.

The inhibition test standard tested for comparison is 1 antitrypsin.

The results are set out in Tables VIII and IX below.

TABLE VIII Antielastase activity of the Lannea coromandelica extracts. Amethod in which elastin connected with Congo red is used: results inpercentage inhibition. Dose in % 80% Methanol bark extract Ethanol barkextract (wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Control 0 0 0.1% extract 0 0 0.2%extract 6 29 0.3% extract 35 100 C150 in % by wt./vol. 0.35 0.23 NB:C150 in % by wt./vol. for 1α antitrypsin = 0.04%

TABLE IX Antielastase activity of the Lannea coromandelica extracts. Amethod which uses the synthetic substrate: results in percentageinhibition. Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol Dose in % extract extractbark extract (wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A Control 0 0 0 0.01%extract 0 22 37 0.01% extract 56 65 67 0.01% extract 66 76 77 0.01%extract 72 82 83 C150 in % by wt./vol. 0.028 0.023 0.019 NB: C150 in %by wt./vol. for 1α antitrypsin = 0.04%

b) In Tubo Anticollagenase Test

The tests are carried out with a clostridium hystoliticum collagenaseand a synthetic chromogenic substrate: FALGPA. Incubation lasts 30minutes at room temperature and optical density is measured at 324 nm.The inhibition test standard tested for comparison is cysteine.

The results are set out in Table X below which emphasizes theanticollagenase activity of the Lannea coromandelica extracts (resultsin percentage inhibition).

TABLE X Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol Dose in % extract extract barkextract (wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A Control 0 0 0 0.01%extract 46 0 2 0.03% extract 100 43 51 0.1% extract 100 100 100 0.3%extract 100 100 100 C150 in % by wt./vol. 0.0111 0.039 0.030 NB: C150 in% by wt./vol. of cysteine = 2.4%

It is clear from the above results that Lannea coromandelica extractsare well capable of inhibiting elastase and collagenase.

Accordingly, extracts according to the invention may advantageously beused for various applications involving inhibition of these proteasessuch as, for example, tightening of the skin, controlling ageing of theskin (wrinkles) and scalp, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritationeffects.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceuticalcomposition for external application to the skin, the mucous membranesand/or the epithelial appendage (superficial body growth) which containsat least one extract of a plant belonging to the genus Lannea,preferably Lannea coromandelica or Lannea grandis, as an activeprinciple on its own or together with at least one other activeprinciple used for its strong anti-radical-like effect, for its abilityto inhibit tyrosinase and melanogensis, for its strong anticollagenaseeffect, for its strong antielastase effect and/or for itscytophotoprotective effect (particularly against UV-A).

The said extract(s) may be used in this composition to utilize one ofthe above-mentioned effects or properties regarded separately or atleast two of these effects or properties or even for all effects orproperties regarded simultaneously.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageouslycontains between 0.001% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1%and 3% by weight of a plant extract or a mixture of plant extractsbelonging to the genus Lannea, preferably Lannea grandis or Lanneacoromandelica, as mentioned above or as obtained by any of the processesmentioned above.

In addition, the above-mentioned extracts may be used in any form of agalenic medicine as normally used in cosmetics, for example in emulsions(oil-in-water and water-in-oil), face lotions, body milk, gels,hydrogels, creams, pommades, soaps, sticks, sprays, epithelial appendage(superficial body growth) lotion and shampoos.

In addition, the said extracts or mixtures of plant extracts may beincorporated in cosmetic vectors such as, for example, liposomes,macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles or thelike.

The following Examples illustrate various formulations of the cosmeticcompositions according to the invention and their preparation.

EXAMPLE 1

A cosmetic product in the form of a leave-on lotion for treatingcutaneous hyperpigmentation and pigment spots may have the followingcomposition:

80% methanol extract of Lannea bark 0.10 distilled water 9.50hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50 Elestab 350 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques)0.50 perfume 0.10 RH 410 Cremophor 0.30 distilled water qsf 100.00

The process for preparing the leave-on lotion essentially comprisesdissolving the Elestab 305 and the hydroxyethyl cellulose in waterheated to around 50° C., dispersing the perfume and the RH 410 Cremophorin the solution and then cooling the mixture to room temperature,dissolving the Lannea extract therein and finally filtering the whole.

EXAMPLE 2

A cosmetic product in the form of a cream for treating ageing skin,wrinkles and loss of suppleness of the skin may be made up from thefollowing two phases:

fatty phase Ceteareth 25 2.00 Ceteareth 6 and stearyl alcohol 1.00 cetylalcohol 4.00 glycol stearate 4.00 petrolatum 5.00 caprylictriglycerides/caprins 5.00 aqueous phase glycerol 10.00 aqueous Lanneabark extract 3.00 distilled water 8.50 Elestab 4112 preservative (Labo.Sérobiol.) 0.40 perfume 0.30 distilled water qsf 100.00

Preparation of the above-mentioned cream essentially comprises heatingthe fatty phase to 80° C., heating the aqueous phase to 80° C. anddissolving the Elestab 4112, separately preparing the mother solution ofLannea extract, adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase whilestirring (turbine agitator), adding the mother solution of Lanneaextract at around 50° C. and finally allowing the whole to cool whilestirring.

EXAMPLE 3

A cosmetic product in the form of a cream for sensitive skin types fortreating skin damaged by exposure to the sun and environmental stressmay be made up of the following phases:

fatty phase: glycol stearate 14.00 dodecane octyl 6.00 dibutyl adipate6.00 Ceteareth 12 1.50 Ceteareth 20 1.50 aqueous phase: PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) 0.50 glycerol 4.00 Elestab 388 (LaboratoiresSérobiologiques) 2.00 80% methanol extract of Lannea bark 3.00 distilledwater 9.00 perfume 0.20 distilled water qsf 100.00

Preparation of the above-mentioned cream essentially comprises heatingthe fatty phase to 80° C., heating the aqueous phase to 80° C. anddissolving the Elestab 388 and PVP, adding the fatty phase to theaqueous phase while stirring (turbine agitator) at 80° C. and, finally,gradually cooling the whole while stirring, adding the mother dispersionof the Lannea extract at around 50° C. and finally allowing the whole tocool while stirring.

The invention is not of course confined to the above Examples.Modifications may be made, particularly to the composition of thevarious elements or by the replacement of technical equivalents, withoutdeparting from the scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least oneplant extract from a plant belonging to a genus selected from the groupconsisting of Lannea, Odina, and mixtures thereof for application onto ahuman substrate selected from the group consisting of skin, mucousmembranes and epithelial appendages, wherein the plant extract isobtained using a solvent selected from the group consisting of methanol,ethanol, a combination of water and methanol, a combination of water andethanol, and mixtures thereof.
 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein theplant extract is extracted from a plant selected from the groupconsisting of Lannea coromandelica, Lannea grandis, and mixturesthereof.
 3. The composition of claim 1 wherein the plant extractcomprises at least one isolated fraction purified from an extract. 4.The composition of claim 1 further comprising an active ingredientselected from the group consisting of an anti-radical agent, atyrosinase-inhibiting agent, a melanogenesis-inhibiting agent, ananticollagenase agent, an antielastase agent, a cytoprotective agent,and mixtures thereof.
 5. The composition of claim 1 wherein the plantextract is present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.001to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 6. Thecomposition of claim 1 wherein the plant extract is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on theweight of the composition.
 7. A process for treating a human substrateselected from the group consisting of skin, mucous membranes andepitheleal appendages comprising contacting the substrate with acosmetic composition containing at least one plant extract from a plantbelonging to a genus selected from the group consisting of Lannea,Odina, and mixtures thereof, wherein the plant extract is obtained usinga solvent selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, acombination of water and methanol, a combination of water and ethanol,and mixtures thereof.
 8. The process of claim 7 wherein the plantextract is extracted from a plant selected from the group consisting ofLannea coromandelica, Lannea grandis, and mixtures thereof.
 9. Theprocess of claim 7 wherein the plant extract comprises at least oneisolated fraction purified from an extract.
 10. The process of claim 7wherein the composition further comprises an active ingredient selectedfrom the group consisting of an anti-radical agent, atyrosinase-inhibiting agent, a melanogenesis-inhibiting agent, ananticollagenase agent, an antielastase agent, a cytoprotective agent,and mixtures thereof.
 11. The process of claim 7 wherein the plantextract is present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.001to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 12. Theprocess of claim 7 wherein the plant extract is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on theweight of the composition.